Great Western War through the Ages, Renaissance

On Sunday of Great Western War, we celebrated the Renaissance, the period nearest and dearest to my heart.

I made this second attempt at a 1580s Italian working class woman in June (the first attempt, one of my earlier forays into SCA period costuming is documented here...). I failed to get any pictures before now, and June was about 20 pounds ago, so the fit is no longer ideal. And I haven't yet had a chance to take the bodice apart and take it in, so please forgive the poor fit. It fit better when I made it!

The dress is made of a heavier weight light blue linen, which I bought ages ago in the LA fabric district. The bodice is interlined with a cotton canvas and lined with a lighter weight linen, and laces up the front through lacing rings sewn to the inside of the bodice. The skirt is unlined and cartridge pleated to the bodice. Both the bodice and the hem of the skirt are trimmed with red wool.

I'm wearing the embroidered partlet I made a couple of years ago. I also recently finished the white linen smocked apron, and the loose pocket or saccoccia. The sleeves are one layer of linen, and tie in to the shoulder of the bodice at only one point. Lastly, I'm wearing a little linen cap over my hair. These are less common in depictions of Italian working class women as they are in other regions, but are seen in a few. The Anea Files has an excellent collection of images.

And here are the pictures!

And that's all for a Western War. Coming soon, a few non-SCA garb projects that I've been making for other people, including princess dresses and birthday presents!

Great Western War through the Ages, High Middle Ages

I think that if I hadn't chosen late 15th/early 16th century Italy as the time and place for my SCA persona, I would have probably decided to be 14th century. There's something about 14th century cotehardies. They're quintessentially medieval.

I've made what I call faux-hardies in the past - garments that look like cotehardies, but are basically built like a t-tunic, with no built in support. And I've made fitted cotehardies for other people. But I've never made a true, 14th century fitted cotehardie for myself, until now. And I see what all the fuss was about. They're kind of awesome.

I'm going to include a few construction notes and pictures here. The under-cotehardie is a dark green, heavier weight linen. All the support for the dress is built into this layer. Because linen stretches slightly, and because all the support for this gown is built into a single layer cote, you must account for the stretch while fitting. Otherwise, you'll get partway through a day and find that the fabric has relaxed, and things are no longer as supportive as they were that morning... Not a good feeling.

I started with my usual Gothic fitted dress pattern and cut out the four panels of the dress, two for the front, and two for the back.

Pin together the bodice of the dress on the back and side seams, to the point where the gores start. Also at this point, sew a strip of fabric as facing to either side of the front opening, make your eyelets. Then put on the dress and lace it up. Wear it around the house for 15-20 minutes to allow the linen fibers to warm up from your body heat and stretch. Then remove any slack from the side seams and pin them further in. Unlace the dress, straighten up the pins and make sure the lines are straight and symmetrical, and repeat the process. Here is the dress in the middle of that process, with pins in the side seams.

And here's what I ended up with. Along the edge of the fabric is where I originally though the seam line should be, and the pin line shows where the seam ended up.

Then, continue with the rest of the dress. You need four gores. Here's a trick my friend Daisy showed me on the most efficient way to cut gores. Cut a strip of fabric the length your gores need to be and the width of your fabric.

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Fold it in fourths like an accordion.

Then cut this diagonally.

You end up with three whole triangular gores, and two end pieces, which you can sew down the middle to make a gore.

And here's the sleeve pattern I came up with. I think sleeves are my least favorite part of sewing these types of gowns. I'm so accustomed to detachable sleeves that I find it especially trying to have to match up the sleeve cap with the armsye.

I put self-fabric buttons along the arm from the elbow to the wrist. They're fitted enough that I have to unbutton the last couple of buttons to get the sleeve over my hand. Also, because of the fit of the dress, when I put it on, I have to mostly lace it, then let the fibers warm up and stretch for a few minutes before I can lace it all the way closed.

The blue overgown used the same pattern, but with a tiny bit more ease in the side seam, as this layer didn't have to be supportive. It buttons up the front, and the sleeves end just above the elbow.

I also made detachable tippets - they fasten around my upper arm with a hook and eye. I usually hide the strap under the sleeve of the blue overgown. And I'm wearing the gown with a simple white linen barbette and veil.

Pictures!

Here I'm showing off my tippets...

And here you can kind of see how the tippets attach under the short sleeve of the blue overgown.

And I just had to share of picture of this lady from the Romance of Alexander. She and I share a similar color scheme.

Great Western War through the Ages, Dark Ages

On Friday of Great Western War, we celebrated the Dark Ages. I decided to go Viking.

I have stated in the past that I would never make a viking ensemble, as I found them boring. We all eat our words sometimes. I've recently begun hanging out around artisans who recreate elements of viking culture, heard stories told, and viewed some amazing embroidery. So I've now decided that Vikings are anything but boring, and I needed to learn to dress like one.

The under dress is a simple brown linen t-tunic with 4 gores (which was probably too many. Two side gores would have probably been plenty).

The apron dress is purple wool that I've had in my stash for a while. I wove the trim and belt myself on my inkle loom from a pattern designed by my friend Natalie. The apron dress is probably slightly too big. It's cut with three straight rectangular pieces and three gores. I cut the three rectangular pieces so that their width when stitched together would match my bust measurement. It's probably correct, but looks a bit big to me, as I'm more accustomed to sewing for eras where clothes were more fitted. I may play with the pattern a bit.

I made a Dublin style cap/coif (with the point) rather than a Jorvik style coif (which is rounded), as I thought they were adorable.

Pictures!

The broaches are from Raymond's Quiet Press. I bought the smallest ones I could find, as they are less heavy and less expensive. I made it all the way to Great Western forgetting to put together some beads to wear between the broaches, so I bought and inexpensive necklace and shortened it.

Great Western War Through the Ages, Antiquity

I've been sewing up a storm, I promise. I've just been woefully neglectful of blogging about it.

This year's Great Western War had a theme of War Through the Ages. Each day of the war Thursday through Sunday had a theme of a particular time period, and the fighting scenarios, classes, and everything else was geared toward that theme. The time periods were roughly Antiquity, The Dark Ages, the High Middle Ages, and the Renaissance.

With Thursday's Antiquity theme, we were going slightly pre-SCA period and celebrating ancient Greece and Rome. I went for more of a Greek flair and wore a simple chiton which I've blogged about previously. The bottom purple layer is handkerchief weight linen, and the top layer is red silk georgette. It's belted under the bust, and pinned at the shoulders with pins which I've made from recycled gaudy gold early 90s post earrings.

I've attempted to style my hair similar to a hairstyle from and ancient Greek bust I saw somewhere. It's a little uneven.

The lake at Great Western makes for a lovely backdrop. We were fortunate enough to be camped on the lake shore.

I also completed a new painted silk banner prior to Great Western with help from some very knowledgeable and talented artisans in my shire. From the left it depicts the populace badges of the Kingdom of Caid, the Shire of Al Sahid, and my personal device.

Here it is flying proudly over the camp prior to the rest of my household's arrival. I am in love with silk banners, and will have to make more. They make camp look so festive!