Burgundians for Twelfth Night

My friends Lizzy and Joella attended Highland War with me, where we dressed up in chitons and played in the sun. They enjoyed themselves so much that they said they'd like to come to another one that's less fighting oriented. I had also been meaning to try a Burgundian for a while. So, of course, this was the perfect opportunity.

Several websites were very helpful in collecting period images for study and sharing construction techniques, including this one, this one, and this one.

Each of these gowns has three layers: a chemise or shift, a 15th century, short-sleeved fitted kirtle, and the overgown. We all also have accessories; hats, belts, and necklaces.

All three chemises were made of handkerchief weight white linen. Lizzy and Joella's kirtles are made of linen, and mine is tropical weight wool. All three are fully lined and lace up the front through hand bound eyelets. Sadly, between my inexpensive and aging camera and the bad lighting as we were hurriedly dressing for the event, this is the only semi-decent picture I got of our kirtle layer.

Joella's overgown is black wool, and trimmed with and acetate red velvet. Her hat and belt are covered in a silver and black brocade, and the veil is the lightest, sheerest silk I could find from Dharma Trading Company.

Lizzy's overgown is a gold polyester brocade that I found ages ago for about $4 a yard. I think the pattern fits with this period well. The trim is green cotton velvet from my stash. The pink on the belt and hat are a synthetic satin. She did the beadwork on the hat and belt.

Her unusual, upward padded roll hat is inspired by these images.

My overgown is green silk velvet (which I found at the LA fabric district for $10/yard!) trimmed with black faux fur. I ended up lining the overgown with a lightweight green wool because the silk velvet was too light to drape properly on its own. My hat and belt are black silk dupionni, and the veil is the same lightweight silk.

On my necklace, I was attempting to recreate this piece, but didn't quite make it.

Our garb got good reviews at Twelfth Night, and we had a blast.

I did notice one thing about my overgown that I will do differently if I make another. I cut the "V" of the neck a little too wide, and it emphasizes the bust, an area in which I don't need any additional emphasis. I think that adding a couple of inches would make the "V" more narrow, and fix this problem.

I also had trouble keeping my hat on. It was a bit top heavy. A kind lady at Twelfth Night who sometimes wears this style told me that I should have a strip of velvet tied tightly around my head, and a matching strip of velvet, with the nap going in the opposite direction, inside the edge of the hat. I'm going to try that.

Also, here's my favorite picture of Lizzy and Joella - they were talking and didn't know they were being photographed. If I had photoshop skills, I would remove the background and replace it with a nice medieval landscape.

My next project is to (finally!) get to the red Eleonora of Toledo dress. And I'm going to try very hard to make in-progress posts this time.