Project: Victorian Bustle Gown

I spent much of last weekend working on my Victorian undergarments. I've completed the chemise and drawers. Both were fairly simple, and I thought they turned out rather nicely. The pattern suggested sewing six decorative tucks near the hem of both the chemise and each leg of the drawers, which you can certainly skip, but I thought they added a bit of charm. I also added lace around the shoulders and arms, and the hem of the chemise, but I think the lace on the hem looks funny with the tucks, and may end up taking it out.







I've also begun work on the corset. The Laughing Moon #100 (Ladies Victorian Underwear) pattern I'm using includes patterns for two corsets: The Dore straight seem, and the Silverado, which includes bust gores. Since I'm rather blessed (or cursed) in that area, I'm using the Silverado pattern. They also suggest making a mock-up of the corset to ensure sizing before cutting up your expensive fabric. This is a very good idea, as I found I had to make several adjustments. I'm doing a single layer mock-up out of an old curtain I found in a thrift store.

The pattern consists of 5 pieces. Keep yourself organized, because it's very easy to forget which piece is which. It's also a good idea to mark the size you're cutting with a marker or colored pen, as there are a lot of lines, and it's very easy to get confused. I found that the pattern runs a little large. I initially cut it to my measurements, but the ends met in the back - there is supposed to be a 2 inch gap for lacing. The bust gores were also way too big. I ended up cutting them two sizes smaller than my bra size, but I think that will work out okay. With corsets, it seems that too small is better than too big.





My coutil and the rest of my corset hardware should come in this next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start of the actual corset soon. I'm planning to seem rip my mock-up apart and just use it as the pattern. Also, as you can see, my dress form came in this week, about which I am very excited. I'm mostly happy with it, but it has a couple of issues. I'll do a review of it later.

Let's get this show on the road...

My big, exciting plans were temporarily postponed due to money reasons, but I finally put my foot down. Though I've near depleted my account, I have some fun new toys to play with.




I drove myself down the hill this morning and purchased a shiny, brand new, mid-range Brother sewing machine. It has about 40 different stitches, and does one-step buttonholes. I hope it will be a good little workhorse machine. And the best part: it's much faster than sewing by hand with a needle and thread. It's a bit pink, but that's my only complaint thus far. So now, I have no excuses to keep me from sewing.

My first project will hopefully begin tomorrow. My fabric is pre-washing in the washing machine right now. I've wanted to make Victorian clothing for quite some time, so I'm starting out with a set of Victorian foundation garments.

Though I'm not good with patterns, I decided that getting the correct shape for a historically correct Victorian corset was beyond me, so I purchased a pattern. The most highly-reviewed pattern I found online was the #100 Ladies Victorian Underwear pattern from Laughing Moon Mercantile. It comes with patterns for the Chemise and Drawers, as well two separate corset patterns, and the one pattern includes sizes 6-26 and bust sizes A-4D. And it cost only $14. If it turns out well, it should be a very good buy. A full review will come later, after I've had a chance to try it out. From the same company, I've also purchased a pattern which includes six different types of hoops and supports, roughly covering years 1856-1889, which in my opinion, certainly covers all the fun stuff.




While away, I also purchased about 15 yards of white cotton muslin and broadcloth for the chemise, drawers, and petticoats, along with all the requisite trim, notions, boning, lacing, grommets, and tapes. This is going to be a very expensive project. Pictures to follow, as soon as I get started. Happy sewing!