Bustle Gown Project: Break, Bustle, Bodices, and Boots

I took a short break from my sewing for a week or so, but now I'm back in the swing of things.

Firstly, my supplies came in, and I finally finished my bustle support. I tried it on with my chemise and corset, and it's very big. I meant for it to be big, but when you're actually wearing it, it seems strangely big. It's easier to sit in than I expected. All the supports are horizontal, so they collapse when you sit. You just kind of pull everything behind you and perch on the edge of your chair.



I recently signed up for a mailing list from a very helpful blog called the Cloak and Corset, and they sent out an article on corset covers. And I originally wasn't planning to have one of these, but after considering it, decided it would be a good idea. They smooth the bones on the corset and keep them from showing through the bodice. They also create a sweat shield under the arms, and protect the corset, which is a difficult item of clothing to wash. So, I'll probably be making a corset cover at some point. I also need to make a petticoat to go over the bustle support. More muslin is needed. I'm considering buying a whole bolt - it's probably cheaper in the long run.

I've also begun work on the bodice for my bustle gown. It's all cut out and the lining is all cut out. I'm still making a few fitting adjustments, but hopefully I'll be able to begin sewing on that tomorrow night. In other news on bodices, look at this lovely jacket I found in a consignment shop on Friday. To me, it looks just like the bodice for a Victorian riding outfit. I'm certainly going to have to incorporate the jacket in to future projects, or just convert it into a bodice. And it only cost me $17!



I've volunteered to help with costuming for my town's community theater group. I'm afraid this is going to take more of my time than I originally imagined. Most importantly, I'm due for a trip to the fabric store, but can't find a day when I'm free for the next three weeks. So, this project may eventually go on hold for a while, until I can get some more supplies.

Finally, I've begun to wonder about finding a modern equivalent for Victorian shoes and stockings. And I'm still not quite sure what to do about the stockings. For shoes, I really wanted some of those lovely button-up boots. Because, as we all know, massive amounts of decolletage is okay, but ankles are too risque to be shown in public. I've looked online for button-up boots, but couldn't find anything I liked. So, I've bought some thrift shore plain black pumps, and I'm going to make some spats to go over them. I'm still researching the design, but I think these will be lots of fun. Maybe I'll even permanently attach them to the shoe.

Victorian Bustle Gown Project: Musings on the actual dress

So, I did get all the sewing for my bustle support done last night, but realized that not only am I out of grommets, but I also have no tipping fluid. Apparently when you cut the hoop wire, it sometimes has sharp ends. Tipping fluid is a thick rubbery paint that you dip the ends in to round them off. I didn't think of this at all until I was ready to cut the hoop wire and stick it in the channels, then realized how thin my cotton broadcloth is. So anyways, that's on hold until my supplies come in. Pictures to come when I finish the thing.

I've also been beginning to think about what I want to go over all of these supports that I've been working so hard on. Also, as a disclaimer, this first project will be be a learning project. I'm not sure it's even going to be wearable when I finish. I'm not planning to use a pattern, so this will be how I figure everything out. I have a basic style in my head that I'm going for - the mid 1880s late bustle period.





The bodice I'm going for will look similar to the second lady from the left in the first picture, wearing purple. These show up all over the fashion plates of the era. It looks like a high necked jacket with a military collar and cuffs on the sleeves, with a false-front vest with buttons going all the way down the middle front. The little girl in the second fashion plate has something very similar. Many other fashion plates seem to have similar bodices, but you often can't see the bodice because they're viewed from the back. It seems everyone is focusing on that massive bustle. Truly Victorian has something similar (http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/463.html). If going it alone doesn't work out, I may break down and buy this pattern. They also have a very nice overskirt that doesn't look too unobtainable (http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/362.html).

As for fabric, I'm going with some thrift store finds I made:



The brown and cream colored leaf print is from a (very out of date) couch cover, but I think it will work well for this time period. I plan to use this for the bodice and the bustle. This fabric has an icky backing, so I'll have to line it. I have some navy silky stuff in my fabric stash that would probably work well. I plan to make the underskirt out of the navy, which came from two fitted sheets. I'm not sure where or if I'm going to use the burgundy, which came from a tablecloth - I might work it into the bustle. And I even found some navy trim in my stash. I'm thinking I might make the false front out of the white muslin left over from my undergarments and trim it with the navy trim and use big navy buttons down the front. This will be a relatively simple dress for the era - not a lot of trim and extra fabric panels - but it's probably a good idea to start simple. Also, it's hard to find yards and yards of fabric of the same kind in a thrift store.

Also, this outfit will definitely require a hat. I need to learn millinery. I'll put it on the to-do list.

New project on the horizon...

Sooooo..... I know I'm not anywhere close to finishing my Victorian ensemble, but I was in the local thrift store a couple of weekends ago, and found this.



It was a complete bedding set, with a comforter, two pillow shams, and a little throw pillow. It's a white silky color with these burgundy and pink and green embroidered flowers on it. And best of all, the whole thing is heavily decorated with yards of matching green and cream-colored trim. The whole thing cost me less than $10. The comforter was only $1. It had a couple of bad stains, and what looked like a cigarette burn, and the thrift store owner had it in a pile meant for dog bedding. I spent about 3 hours one Sunday afternoon with my seem ripper, tearing the whole thing carefully apart, then discarded the stuffing layer and washed everything. I now have several panels of the white silky embroidered stuff, and yards of matching trim. I wasn't quite sure what to do with it at first - I was debating between going Rococo or Elizabethan with it. But then I realized that to make a Rococo, Marie Antoinette-style gown, would require a great deal more lace and a different sort of trim, plus cover up all the embroidery. I had also been watching Elizabeth R, a beautifully made costume drama about the life of Elizabeth I. And I became inspired. So I think I'm going to try to find some burgundy brocade or velvet for the main part of the dress, and use my embroidered panels in underskirts or linings, so they'll just peak through. With a partlet, and one of those fantastic hats. This will, of course, require a whole new smock, corset (though I believe they were called stays, or "a pair of bodies" at the time), petticoats (or farthingales. Look! I'm picking up the lingo!), and a bumroll (these things have such unfortunate names. It's essentially a stuffed tube). For the corset, I think I'll try to make a reproduction of the Effigy Corset (info here: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/effigy.htm ), and stiffen it with reeds, which is a very period method. As whalebone is not readily available.

I seem to spend all my evenings either sewing or researching costumes on the internet, and daydream about it at work. I think I have a new obsession. Which is good - everyone needs an obsession. I seem to be acquiring a lot of them, though...

Well, the bustle support for my Victorian ensemble may happen this weekend, though I'm out of grommets, so I won't be able to finish it. And probably a stuffed bustle pad. I here they're handy to have when you're trying to get a bustle silhouette, and they're very easy to make compared with all this other stuff. More info on the Elizabethan project as it materializes.

Project: Victorian Bustle Gown. It's a corset!

Last night at about 12:30am, I finally finished my Victorian corset. It's made out of a double layer of white cotton coutil cut into 12 panels, and trimmed in blue. It has a busk in the center front, many many steel bones, both 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch, and 34 metal grommets down the back. It took me two days plus another evening to do the sewing, mostly by machine, but with a little finishing work done by hand. I even did some machine-embroidery leaves on the bust gores to add some color and interest. I'm really proud of it.

I ended up making more adjustments to the pattern before I started cutting the coutil, and I still think the bust is a little funny. It flares out too much at the top, so I'll probably change that in future patterns. However, as far as I can tell, Victorian corsets didn't really cover the whole bust; they pushed it up, but didn't provide support like a modern bra does. This one comes just over halfway up the bust. Also, I probably could have made it another inch or so smaller in the back. I can lace it completely closed. Apparently I have a high "squish factor".

The Laughing Moon Mercantile (# 100, Ladies Victorian Underwear) pattern I used worked out fairly well. I did have to make a couple of adjustments, but I would have been lost without the pattern to start with. It has very clear directions with lots of illustrations. I hope to get a lot of use out of this pattern - it was a very good buy at $14. Also, for the uninitiated, corset supplies can't be found at most normal fabric stores. You pretty much have to order it online - I bought my supplies, including the coutil, from www.corsetmaking.com, and I've been very happy with them so far. They sell grommets by the gross! And I've already gone through over a gross between this corset and my two Renaissance bodices and arm bracers.

I've tried the corset on a couple of times, and it's fairly comfortable. Sitting down is a little difficult - perhaps I made it too long. The bottom of the corset hits my legs,and the whole thing shifts up, pushing my bust toward my chin. However, I'm really pleased with it, and it should look really good under the late Victorian bustle styles. Here's some more pictures.


Detail of the center front. Notice the embroidery leaves. And the bow! The bow makes me happy.


Side view. I apologize for the poor quality pictures. It seems that I am a seamstress, but photography is not one of my skills.


Back view. It laces much more tightly when I put it on me, however, my dress form doesn't squish like human flesh does. I'll try to get a picture with it all on me soon.