Project: Victorian Bustle Gown. It's a corset!

Last night at about 12:30am, I finally finished my Victorian corset. It's made out of a double layer of white cotton coutil cut into 12 panels, and trimmed in blue. It has a busk in the center front, many many steel bones, both 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch, and 34 metal grommets down the back. It took me two days plus another evening to do the sewing, mostly by machine, but with a little finishing work done by hand. I even did some machine-embroidery leaves on the bust gores to add some color and interest. I'm really proud of it.

I ended up making more adjustments to the pattern before I started cutting the coutil, and I still think the bust is a little funny. It flares out too much at the top, so I'll probably change that in future patterns. However, as far as I can tell, Victorian corsets didn't really cover the whole bust; they pushed it up, but didn't provide support like a modern bra does. This one comes just over halfway up the bust. Also, I probably could have made it another inch or so smaller in the back. I can lace it completely closed. Apparently I have a high "squish factor".

The Laughing Moon Mercantile (# 100, Ladies Victorian Underwear) pattern I used worked out fairly well. I did have to make a couple of adjustments, but I would have been lost without the pattern to start with. It has very clear directions with lots of illustrations. I hope to get a lot of use out of this pattern - it was a very good buy at $14. Also, for the uninitiated, corset supplies can't be found at most normal fabric stores. You pretty much have to order it online - I bought my supplies, including the coutil, from www.corsetmaking.com, and I've been very happy with them so far. They sell grommets by the gross! And I've already gone through over a gross between this corset and my two Renaissance bodices and arm bracers.

I've tried the corset on a couple of times, and it's fairly comfortable. Sitting down is a little difficult - perhaps I made it too long. The bottom of the corset hits my legs,and the whole thing shifts up, pushing my bust toward my chin. However, I'm really pleased with it, and it should look really good under the late Victorian bustle styles. Here's some more pictures.


Detail of the center front. Notice the embroidery leaves. And the bow! The bow makes me happy.


Side view. I apologize for the poor quality pictures. It seems that I am a seamstress, but photography is not one of my skills.


Back view. It laces much more tightly when I put it on me, however, my dress form doesn't squish like human flesh does. I'll try to get a picture with it all on me soon.